Most tourists reach the cave by boat. We, of course, walked up. If we have the choice, we’ll always pick movement over a motor. There’s effort involved, and a reward at the end — a temple inside a cave.
Basia walked part of the way and slept the rest of it in the Tula carrier on my back. Mania and Jas did the whole route on their own legs. Almost 4 kilometres, 270 metres of climbing, 32°C in the shade, and no toilets along the way.
It’s one of those trails that works really well for kids who don’t love hours-long hikes. Which doesn’t mean it goes without sweat, tiredness and a bit of grumbling on the way.
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Getting to Phraya Nakhon Cave
Phraya Nakhon Cave sits inside Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, about two hours south of Hua Hin. We were already on our way back from a longer loop around Thailand with the kids, heading back to our island, Koh Lanta.
If you ever end up in Prachuap Khiri Khan province — south of Bangkok, along the gulf coast — the cave is one of the main draws, especially if you’re staying in Hua Hin. Park entry is 200 baht per person (around €5). Get there early — the tour buses start rolling in around 10am.
You can skip the first climb by taking a boat over to Phraya Nakhon beach and starting up from there. The boats don’t always run though — it depends on the weather and the wind. The trek is half the experience anyway.
The trail through the jungle
The route is fairly straightforward and varied. Part of it goes through forest, part over rock steps, part over loose gravel. If you’re there in the rainy season like we were, some sections get genuinely tricky after rain.
On the steeper bits Basia ended up in the Tula — a carrier makes a huge difference on a hike like this. On the easier sections she pushed ahead on her own.
There’s a viewpoint along the way, looking out over the bay. We stopped there for a snack break. We were drinking water non-stop — 32°C and high humidity isn’t ideal for an “easy hike” or even a demanding walk. The kids’ travel backpacks were half empty by the time we reached the cave.
Garmin clocked the whole route at 3.91 km and just under four hours with the kids, 270 metres of climbing.
A temple inside the rock
Just before the cave chamber the path drops steeply down. After rain the rocks are seriously slippery, so go slow.
In the second chamber stands the Khua Kharuehat pavilion, built for King Rama V (Chulalongkorn) in 1890. It’s positioned exactly where a shaft of light pours through an opening in the cave roof.
To catch the effect at its best, you need to be at the pavilion between 10:30 and 11:30. Which means leaving the car park no later than 9:30.
When we got there, we were glad we’d come early. We were practically alone. The silence and the cool air kept us inside for a while. Then the crowds started arriving, and we headed back out.
Meeting dusky leaf monkeys on the way down
We took the same route back down. Right at the flatter section, Jas spotted black silhouettes in the bushes — monkeys with unmistakable white rings around their eyes. “Monkeys!” he shouted.
They were sitting just a few metres from us and weren’t remotely bothered by our presence. The kids stood completely still, watching them for a few minutes. Our stop started attracting other passers-by, and pretty soon a small crowd had gathered.
These are the moments we love most — meeting wild animals where they actually live. We had a similar feeling in Khao Yai national park further north.
A few things that actually make a difference
Bring at least a litre of water per person — there’s nowhere to top up on the trail. If you come down via Phraya Nakhon beach, there’s a restaurant at the bottom. Start before 9:30 if you want to catch the light beam in the cave at the right moment. Proper hiking shoes are strongly recommended, though plenty of people seemed to manage in trainers.
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