The Mae Hong Son Loop first made it onto our list of things to do in Thailand back in 2017, during our stay in Chiang Mai. Unfortunately, at the time, lack of time and opportunity prevented us from completing the route. This is Thailand’s most famous scenic drive, stretching over 600 km through the country’s northwestern region, boasting countless curves and breathtaking landscapes. Despite its popularity, many parts of the loop remain authentic and free from mass tourism.
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How Much Time Do You Need for the Mae Hong Son Loop?
During our three-month journey across Thailand, time was not a constraint, so we traveled the Mae Hong Son Loop at a relaxed pace. However, if you have less time, we recommend allocating at least four full days to complete it. Otherwise, you’ll only be able to admire most attractions through the car window.
Itinerary for the Mae Hong Son Loop
The route can be divided into four main sections:
- Chiang Mai – Pai (~180 km) – A very winding yet incredibly scenic drive.
- Pai – Mae Hong Son (~110 km) – Here, you can collect a certificate for completing Thailand’s most winding road (1,864 curves!).
- Mae Hong Son – Mae Sariang (~170 km) – This stretch runs along the border with Myanmar.
- Mae Sariang – Chiang Mai (~200 km).
We highly recommend visiting the Thai-Chinese village of Ban Rak Thai, which adds at least 90 km to your journey. Keep in mind that this is 90 km of steep, winding roads, so don’t expect high speeds.
We also wanted to include Doi Inthanon National Park in the southern part of the loop—something we highly recommend. In the end, our route looked like this:
Chiang Mai – Lisu Lodge – Pai – Ban Rak Thai – Mae Sariang – Mae Chaem.
In total, we covered around 800 km, including all the extra stops we made, such as Thailand’s longest bamboo bridge and the Tham Lod Cave near Pai.
The Best Attractions on the Mae Hong Son Loop
We’ve already touched on some highlights above, but let’s dive deeper. The Mae Hong Son Loop feels like a journey into the “real” Thailand. And what exactly is real Thailand? It’s a rural, moderately poor country with cheap street food, local markets where nobody speaks English (or sometimes even Thai), and no Latin script on signs. At the same time, the popularity of this route makes traveling convenient. You can hire a minibus with a driver, rent a car (as we did), or even ride a motorbike. However, if you choose a motorbike, be aware that this is not the place for your first experience on two wheels—steep descents and sharp curves are unforgiving.
Scenic Views, Scenic Views, and More Scenic Views
Of course, you’ll also find touristy enclaves along the way, such as Pai. Let’s not forget that northern Thailand is also a great destination for excellent coffee and unique cuisine, heavily influenced by Chinese flavors—especially in Ban Rak Thai.
The number one attraction along the route—especially in the early stretches—is the breathtaking views. The panoramic vistas of the Thanon Thong Chai mountain range alone are worth the hundreds of kilometers of driving.
The second highlight is Tham Lod Cave, which we dedicated a separate post to. It’s easily accessible from Pai.
Doi Inthanon National Park
Since we are nature lovers, we couldn’t leave Doi Inthanon National Park out of our top three. This park is home to Thailand’s highest peak, also called Doi Inthanon. We had visited this park before, a few years ago, when we hiked to the “roof of Thailand” and visited a local Karen hill tribe village.
If hiking isn’t your thing, we highly recommend visiting two waterfalls near Mae Chaem instead:
Pha Dok Sieo – More popular, with two trekking options: a short walk directly to the waterfall and back or a longer loop through rice fields. In both cases, a guide accompanies you. Near the trail, you’ll also find a local village where you can enjoy freshly grown and roasted coffee.
Mae Pan – The tallest waterfall in Chiang Mai province.
When planning our Mae Hong Son Loop adventure, we used a short travel guide covering the entire loop, which we highly recommend—it details most attractions and viewpoints along the route.
The Mae Hong Son Certificate & the Best Burmese Curry
The Mae Hong Son Loop is named after the province it passes through. In the town of Mae Hong Son, you can collect an official certificate for completing the loop. The government office handing out the certificates is far from formal—it’s covered in stickers, and the atmosphere inside is quite laid-back.
While in Mae Hong Son, be sure to visit Salween River Restaurant, which serves the best Burmese curry in Thailand. Their menu features dishes that are rare to find elsewhere in Thailand—definitely worth a try!
Where to Stay Along the Mae Hong Son Loop
Our journey was mostly budget-friendly, but we did indulge in a bit of comfort along the way:
- Chiang Mai: A Chiang Mai – A comfortable villa in a great location. Nearby, you’ll find plenty of breakfast spots (both Western and Thai) at affordable prices.
- Pai: Shaya Suandoi Resort – More of a “Thai-style” guesthouse, but run by an Israeli couple, so you can get a great shakshuka for breakfast.
- Ban Rak Thai: Wo Ai Ni Guesthouse – Ban Rak Thai is a tiny village, but it offers several accommodation options. No matter where you stay, everything is within walking distance.
- Mae Sariang: Atom Poshtel – Clean and tidy, but breakfast is underwhelming. Outside of peak season, this town is rather quiet, with few activities apart from a river cruise and some temple trails—but that, in itself, has a certain charm.
- Mae Chaem: Kwanlah Homestay – A friendly host who speaks English. If you’re interested in authentic Thai culture, take the time to chat with him. The place has a cozy, homely feel.
The further south you go on the loop, the fewer accommodation options you’ll find. We were traveling with a dog, which sometimes made booking accommodations a bit tricky.
The Mae Hong Son Loop is one of Thailand’s most stunning road trips. The viewpoints along the way will take your breath away, creating unforgettable landscapes. It also offers a chance to experience authentic Thai culture and incredible local cuisine—but only if you’re willing to step outside your comfort zone.
No matter how you choose to travel—by car, motorbike, or minibus—this adventure will stay with you for a lifetime.
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