There are places on the map of Sardinia that will stay in your memory for a long time – not only because of the views but also due to the stories they hold. One such place is Tiscali – hidden high in the Sardinian mountains, where time has stood still since the Bronze Age. Climbing to the top, under the dense shade of junipers and aromatic herbs, we found ourselves in a hidden cave village built by… the Nuragic people.`
O tym przeczytasz
Reaching Tiscali – How to Get to the Start of the Trail?
Before we reached the beginning of the trail to the top of Tiscali, we had to cycle over 6 km from the parking lot near Sorgente Su Gologone. Normally, when the road isn’t under construction, this section can easily be driven by car. The evening before our hike, we did a test ride to check the route. On the way, following a tip from a lovely woman selling souvenirs at the parking lot, we visited the Grotta di Sa Oche – it’s definitely worth seeing before setting off to Tiscali.
We left early in the morning. Our dog Makaron stayed with the same lovely woman mentioned above. As it turned out, he slept all day in the shade. That’s our old travel companion for you.
Every description of the Tiscali trail advises an early start – and we fully agree! Most of the ascent is shaded, but the final part is exposed to full sun. The trail is demanding, especially in its second half, but the views over the Lanaittu valley are stunning.
The entire loop is around 7.5 km. One interesting feature near the top is a rocky crevice you must squeeze through. Only after passing through this gap and walking several hundred meters further do you reach the Nuragic archaeological site.
Tiscali Trail with Children – Practical Tips
JAs mentioned, the ascent is quite demanding. Basia (6 years old) wouldn’t have made it without a carrier. Her energy ran out about halfway up. Be sure to carry plenty of water – there’s absolutely nowhere to refill or buy along the way. If you’re hiking in July or August, the heat will catch up with you quickly.
Good hiking shoes with solid grip are a must – the descent is over sharp rocks. As you’ll see in the photos, we’re wearing a mix of clothes. We always pack a spare outfit for young Basia (once out of the carrier, her clothes are usually drenched in sweat). We also always bring long sleeves. Most of the clothing you’ll see is UPF-protective gear by Columbia. On such hikes, we also always bring merino wool clothing (we’ve used Patterns for over 8 years), which is just as effective at blocking UV rays.
If you’re planning the Tiscali trek and, like us, you’re traveling with little snack monsters, don’t forget to pack food. For us, freeze-dried meals are a lifesaver on such adventures. We’ve remained loyal to the Polish brand Lyofood for many years.
The Nuragic People – A Symbol of Sardinia
The Nuragic people were a mysterious civilization that lived in Sardinia from around 1800 BC (yes, before our era!). They left no written records, but they did leave behind thousands of stone towers – nuraghe – scattered across the island. To date, over 7,000 such structures have been found in Sardinia. Their function is still unclear – they may have been fortresses, temples, or tribal gathering places.
Importantly – nuraghe exist only in Sardinia. They’re a unique signature of the island, a stone fingerprint with no counterpart anywhere else in Europe.
Tiscali – The Lost Nuragic Settlement in a Cave
The Nuragic village we reached after passing the summit of Tiscali is remarkable even among other Nuragic sites. Hidden within a massive sunken cave, it was likely a last refuge for people fleeing invasions and changes during the Iron Age. Access to the short loop inside the cave is ticketed – cash only, as there is no signal.
The cave itself is impressive, and combined with the ruins of ancient dwellings, it sparks kids’ imagination. It’s also a shady spot perfect for a rest before heading down. We spent over 1.5 hours near the cave – partly because we took a lunch break there.
The Trail to Tiscali
Italian hiking trails aren’t known for being well-marked, even the popular ones like those in Val di Funes. Or maybe it’s just that we’re spoiled by the excellent trail markings in Poland? The same goes for the Tiscali trail. The best example is our own experience: we met hikers coming from the other side who asked us if the Nuragic village was behind us – the very reason they came.
So if you don’t have a map app where you can upload a GPX file for offline navigation, it’s worth reviewing trail numbers in advance. The GPX track we used (shared above) isn’t perfect either. The final section goes through an overgrown area filled with shrubs (there’s lots of wild rosemary there :) but it can be improved. Just continue following the longer trail. It takes more time but saves you from bushwhacking.
If you’re on Sardinia’s eastern coast, near the town of Oliena, definitely put the Tiscali hike on your must-do list.
